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How a generation of record-setting guides died in a disaster that killed a climbing legend

How a generation of record-setting guides died in a disaster that killed a climbing legend

Summary

Six experienced Nepali mountain guides, including well-known climber Nirmal Purja, died in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak. These guides were recognized for their extraordinary achievements on the world’s highest mountains and helped raise global respect for Nepali Sherpas. Their deaths are a major loss to Nepal’s mountaineering community.

Key Facts

  • Six Nepali mountain guides died in an avalanche on Broad Peak, the world’s 12th highest mountain.
  • Nirmal Purja, famous for climbing the 14 highest peaks in about six months, was among those killed.
  • Kili Pemba Sherpa had completed the "Grand Slam" by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders and helped make the first winter ascent of K2.
  • Pur Bahadur Gurung was one of about 100 Nepali guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association.
  • The group’s achievements included climbing mountains without extra oxygen and helping disabled climbers reach Everest’s summit.
  • Other guides killed were Gyaljen Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, and Nawang Thindu Sherpa, each known for climbing multiple high peaks.
  • Nepal’s mountain guides often lead climbs in Nepal during spring and move to Pakistan’s peaks in summer monsoon season.
  • The deaths highlight the important role and talent of Nepali Sherpas in global mountain climbing.
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