The battle to save the dying heart of rural France: the village bistro
Summary
A small village bistro in northern Burgundy, France, recently reopened after eight months closed, thanks to efforts by locals to save it. French village bistros, once numerous, are shrinking quickly, threatening community life and social connections in rural areas.Key Facts
- Au Bon Accueil bistro in Saint-Martin-sur-Ouanne reopened after eight months of closure.
- The bistro offers meals like steak or lasagne for €18.
- It is the village’s last public business since the bakery closed eight years ago.
- French village bistros have declined from about 500,000 in 1900 to 30,000–40,000 today.
- Bistros are closing at a rate of two per day in France.
- Reasons for closures include fewer rural residents, changing social habits, and less alcohol consumption.
- Local leaders and associations work to keep bistros open for social life and community support.
- There is a campaign to have French bistros recognized by UNESCO to help preserve them.
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