The Indian chef who brought curry to America - then vanished
Summary
Indian chef Ranji Smile arrived in New York in 1899 and became known for serving curry at the upscale Sherry’s Restaurant. In 1901, he opened Omar Khayyam, likely the first Indian restaurant in the United States, but the article excerpt ends before explaining what happened to him afterward.Key Facts
- Smile sailed from London to New York in the summer of 1899.
- His origins and real name are unknown; the article says “Ranji” may have referred to cricketer KS Ranjitsinhji and “Smile” may have been an anglicised form of Ismail.
- Before moving to New York, Smile worked as a curry cook at London’s Cecil and Savoy hotels.
- At Sherry’s Restaurant, he served dishes including Bombay duck and a creation called “Lettuce Ceylon.”
- Smile performed for customers in a satin coat and blue silk turban, asking whether they wanted their curry hot or mild.
- In 1901, Smile left Sherry’s and opened Omar Khayyam at 325 Fifth Avenue with financial backing from Roland R. Conklin.
- Omar Khayyam featured Indian décor, Indian waiters and musicians.
- The excerpt says customers did not arrive as Smile had hoped, but it does not describe his later life.
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